Month: February 2020

Clearwater to St. Petersburg

We enjoyed a couple days here in a well-protected marina.  Charlie and Holly Taylor came over to visit us from Sebring and we enjoyed catching up with them, hearing about their new home that is almost finished.

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We met Denny and Reggie, whose dirt house is in St. Louis.  They brought their boat down to visit with kids and grandkids. They are well-traveled boaters, having made the trip to the Bahamas many times.  Denny coached me on places and routes to take, while Amanda reconnected with Birchie, who we had seen in Clearwater.

From St. Petersburg, we head to Bradenton, where we will catch up with Dave and Penny, and meet a number of great locals.

Clearwater, Florida

After a good night’s sleep, we started to get familiar with and enjoy the town.  Ed and Kathy were in the slip adjacent to us, and next to them, were Todd and Patty, friends of theirs who quickly became ours, as well.  Each evening, we enjoyed each other’s company, while the days were set aside for washing the boat, routine maintenance, and finding good restaurants.  One night, we went bowling at Ed and Kathy’s boat.  They have a Wii game, so we bowled the night away.  Amanda particularly enjoyed it, as she beat everybody.  Lots of laughs, along with a little guitar playing and singing (lots more laughs at me), made for a fun evening for all.  

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Todd and Patty, who were (and still are eventually) sort of stuck in Clearwater.  Todd had to have brain surgery and is still recuperating.  Though he has apparently come a long way, he still has a way to go, and doing the Loop is not optional for a few more weeks.  We wish him a speedy recovery so they can continue on the same adventure we are enjoying.

Because of their lengthy stay, they had rented a car.  They were gracious enough to allow us to use it on more than one occasion, making life so much simpler for us.  On our first full day, the 6 of us went to Tarpon Springs and did the tourist thing. 

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We found the area to be fascinating.  The Greek culture was apparent everywhere we turned.  The Greek families settled in this area around the turn of the 20^th century and developed the sponge industry.  For several generations, families have passed this heritage to their children.  We were told the demand for sponges is still greater than the supply.  I’m not sure what portion of the world supply comes from here, but there were still plenty of sponge boats along the waterfront, indicating the industry is still alive and well here.

We enjoyed lunch with our friends and spent the rest of the time browsing in and out of shops and bakeries before returning to the boat that evening.

Patty is a fitness buff, so she invited Amanda to her local fitness center, which allowed her to get some much needed exercise, still one of the challenges of living on a boat.  The city is relatively flat and has some great places to run, as well, so I was able to run several of the days while here.

We were able to continue our gluttony of sea food, but we also found a great Mexican restaurant just up the street from the marina.  We do miss our Monday Jalapeño nights in Savannah.  Other than grandchildren, it’s probably the thing we miss the most.  My apologies to the 2 or 3 people in Savannah that might read this. 

I was also able to find a computer/phone repair store. The guy in Ft. Walton “fixed” my phone and installed a “new” battery.  When we got to Clearwater, I got my phone fixed again and installed another battery…again.   Also, my long love for Windows 7 has come to an end.   It was my primary tool running Champion Fire all those years.  After the first of the year, I was notified by Microsoft that Version 7 would no longer be supported. Fortunately, my old laptop would support Windows 10, so the same guy did that installation for me.  Was so relieved I didn’t have to purchase another computer.

It’s a funny thing about living on a boat.  Just like when looking forward to getting on the boat at home, we look forward to getting off the boat, just for a little break.

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Our last night together, the 6 of us packed into the little rental car and rode over the bridge to the beach.  The Gulf beaches are SOOOOOOOO much prettier than the Atlantic.  Green water and white sand is so beautiful.

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We ended up at The Bait Shop, a little outdoor restaurant on the water, much like The Wyld, back in Savannah.  We celebrated Todd and Patty’s 3^rd Anniversary, swapping lies and laughing together.

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Clearwater was a great stop for a week.

Crossing Day Dog Island to Clearwater, Florida

Crossing day.  The weather forecast held promising, so we checked our list and made sure we had forgotten nothing.  The normal start crossing time is 4 pm.  That time frame allows you to hit the area at daylight where crab pots typically start showing up. But the winds were supposed to pick up a little later (actually early in the morning), so, at the recommendation of Kim, the forecaster, we decided to get away no later than noon, to ensure an arrival before the winds reached an uncomfortable level.  We also decided to take a less direct route, favoring the coast of Florida (aka The Rim), to improve the possibility of smoother waters.  As previously mentioned, we do have stabilizers on our boat, so we manage a little better than many boats.  But we determined to be a team player and stick with our friends.  Besides, safety in numbers is always the best approach.

We pulled out at 11:39 am, Monday morning, February 3^rd.  Plotted distance: 157 NM.  We did not sleep in, as was the plan.  I guess the adrenaline and a little anxiety woke us bright and early.  The skies were sunny, temperature 62 degrees and winds were only 4 knots out of the ESE. 

All the daylight hours were pleasant as we crept along at our 7.2 knot speed. We saw the sun set in the Gulf of Mexico about 6:00 pm and darkness fell soon. 

The moon was pretty high in the sky early and assisted in our view of the ocean as our eyes grew accustomed to the dark.  The hours started creeping more slowly as we found ourselves starting to drag.  I was beyond taking a nap, but tried for a bit while Amanda tended the auto pilot.  I’m sure I dozed, but did count it as sleep.  By midnight, we were closing in on the 100-mile mark. 

I was soon back at the wheel, debating the cup of coffee to push me through the rest of the night.  Ah, college days reminisced. About 1:30 am, moon still providing some natural light, something caught my eye off the port side of the boat.  I called our buddy boat, Vitamin C, reporting what could have been a crab pot, but I was not sure.  I told them to keep their eyes peeled.  Less than 5 minutes later, now with my spotlight panning, I announced that I saw a crab pot…then another, then another.  A thirty second conversation with Ed and we agreed that stopping was the only decision that made any sense.  Our early exit from Dog Island, to beat the wind, was coming back to haunt us. We dropped anchors in 32 feet of water and hoped to get some shuteye, waiting on first light. By now, the wind was doing exactingly what was forecasted,  creating wave action, being felt much more significantly at anchor than underway.  With stabilizers, the swells and waves were hardly noticeable.  Sitting at anchor, not so much the case.  The Honey Queen rocked and rolled. We both went to bed.  Amanda lasted maybe 15 minutes and had to get up.  I laughed as I tried to sleep on my side, but I was constantly ending up on my face or my back.  Somehow, I fell asleep for maybe 3 hours, while Amanda sat up in the pilot house and counted waves, instead of sheep. The alarm sounded at 6 am and I stumbled to the coffee pot. I sat and sipped and watched the Eastern sky transform from black to pink to orange before the solar king peaked over the horizon.

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Daybreak came just before 7 am.  At that moment, we did a panorama of the boat and counted 10 crab pots.  I wish I could have taken a picture of all of them. God was watching out for us. Our decision had been a good one.  It would have been only a matter of time before one or both boats would have line wrapped around the prop/shaft.

From here until almost Clearwater, we dodged the crab pot floats.  No more auto pilot, no relaxing while underway.  With the motion of the waves, a crab pot can be behind a wave and under your boat in a second.  There are some advantages to having a slow boat. Even at our slow pace, it was not unusual to have to make a quick turn to avoid going over one.

At 3:30 pm, almost 27 hours since our Dog Island departure, we pulled into the Clearwater Municipal Marina.  A relatively new marina in the heart of downtown, we enjoyed a slip beside Vitamin Sea and new friends, Todd and Patty, on the Alcyone.  I was surprisingly alert, considering.  But looking forward to a good night’s sleep. We had an early dinner and crashed.  Clearwater would be our home for a week.

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Apalachicola to Dog Island/Carabelle

Ground Hog Day, we woke up to the great news that we would have an early Spring, as the infamous Phil, the Punxsutawney groundhog, predicted.  It must have been an omen because we got an improved forecast for the potential Monday evening crossing.  Time will tell if Phil knows what he’s doing.

We “went to church” by linking up to our Compassion Christian app and streamed our Sunday morning service from Savannah. Right after lunchtime, Amanda reconnected with Kim (weather forecaster) once again for an updated forecast.  Kim said, “GO!”.  The weather was going to be pretty good for a Monday afternoon start.  Within 15 minutes, we had disconnected the power and lines at the Scipio Creek Marina and were underway, destination Dog Island.

Our 4-hour trip of 23 NM got us to the anchorage on the North side of the island.  Winds were brisk, gusting to 25 knots.  But the forecast called for them to calm down as the evening wore on.  So, I bundled up and dropped 125 feet of anchor rode, to ensure we wouldn’t drag during the stiff winds.  The boat rocked from 6 pm till about 9, but then settled into a quiet evening of calm waters.  I watched the last 2 minutes of the Super Bowl.  I watched a total of 2 minutes of NFL the entire season, as I still have issues with their tolerance of players kneeling during my National Anthem. I believe Kansas City won.  Really glad I missed the halftime show. We crashed about 9:30 or so and had an incredibly quiet night, hearing only the Gulf crash on the shores just over the dunes of the skinny Dog Island. Tomorrow is the big “crossing” from here all the way to Clearwater.

Pearl Bayou to Apalachicola, Florida

We traveled from Pearl Bayou (anchorage near Tyndale AFB and Panama City) through the East Bay, Mexico Beach, Port St. Joseph, Lake Wimico, into the Jackson River, the Apalachicola River, and finally into Scipio Creek in the heart of Apalachicola, or The Apalach, as the locals say .

The day was long, but easy, to Apalachicola. The devastation we saw was sobering.  How sad to see all the hurricane damage along the coastline.  Trees were destroyed everywhere.  I’m sure it was a beautiful ride just a few short months ago.  The locals say it will never be the same.  The most developed area was Mexico Beach. It was essentially wiped off the map. Not much other industry around, so it is unlikely the financial base will support the cleanup and restoration of the natural landscape. 

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We arrived in Apalachicola a little after 3 pm today. Our trip was 7 3/4 hours and covered just under 50 miles.  

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Hurricane Michael did minimal damage here, so things have pretty much returned to normal. 

On our first morning of town exploration, we met Gwen in a ladies’ clothing store where she works. Amanda and Gwen quickly became friends.  I got out of the store with only minimal damage and shortly thereafter, Gwen and Reggie Corbett were on our boat having a glass of wine. 

They have been in the area less than 2 years, moving here from Del Ray, Florida, to get away from the fast pace of development in south Florida.  They bought a home here, built in the late 1800’s, which has been immaculately restored. Thirteen-foot-high ceilings make the home feel so spacious.  They welcomed us in, loaned us their spare car for grocery shopping and errands (a vintage Jaguar) and made us feel like family. 

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Apalachicola, besides a quaint stop, also serves as a great place to prep and begin the weather watch process for the crossing.  A boat can leave directly from here and cut across the Gulf to Tarpon Springs or Clearwater.   Most Loopers, however, choose to go a little further East to Carrabelle. Leaving from Carabelle saves about 20 miles vs. crossing from Apalach.  So, we started studying the weather “apps” we have used along much of our trip.  Windy has become our favorite.  It provides current wind, wave, and swell action along many points of travel.  It also does a great job of forecasting up to 5 days out.  This free app has become our “go-to” daily as we plan our travel. The forecast for the rest of the week was pretty dismal, so we decided we would sleep late, eat out, and walk the streets of Apalach until the weather broke in our favor.  We enjoyed dinner at the Owl with our new friends, Ed and Kathy, of Vitamin Sea, a 40-foot motor cruiser.  They joined us on our second day at Scipio Creek Marina.  Each day, we met and discussed the weather forecast.  Also, a weather forecaster, Kim, in Carrabelle, was consulted for her professional opinion.  She welcomes calls from Loopers and affirms or disputes your tentative plans.  Her expertise is much broader that most of ours.  She is such a help in planning the crossing.

Friday night, we went to the Dixie Theater in downtown Apalachicola.  The entertainment was a Jim Croce tribute singer.  He did a great job of playing Jim’s greatest hits (and some classics that weren’t big hits).  Croce, one of my influences as an acoustic player, was well presented this night. 

The crossing, from Carrabelle, can range from 140-160 NM, depending on your route selection.  Many even follow the Florida coastline (aka the “rim”), going to Steinhatchee and Cedar Key before the Tarpon Springs/Clearwater area.  This route is not an option for us because the water depths won’t accommodate our near 5 foot draft.

By Saturday, the forecast for a Monday crossing started to show promise.  We called it day with the plan to review again Sunday morning, right after church.

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We turned our sites to Pearl Bayou and left Two Georges Marina behind about 7:15 am.  Our journey today would be 8.5 hours and cover 68 NM. 

Our first leg was about 20 miles across the Choctawhatchee Bay.  The day was sunny and the water flat.  The temps reached the mid 60’s, which is almost balmy compared to what we’ve endured the last few weeks. 

The day was pretty uneventful.  We enjoyed the porpoises visiting the bow occasionally and saw lots of bird activity in the bay, feeding on fish.

The remainder of the day was “inside” on the ICW.

We toyed with the idea of staying at a marina instead of going all the way to the anchorage.  It had been a long day and we were feeling like a marina would compensate for our laziness.  But as we checked marina after marina, along the way, we were soon reminded of the damage that Hurricane Michael had inflicted in October of 2018.  Almost every marina is still closed in this area.  Many have no docks, or if so, they were so damaged they have been rendered useless.

We arrived at Pearl Bayou, an ideal anchorage because it is surrounded, almost completely, by land mass.  Unless the wind is really brisk out of the East, the water is flat as a lake.  There were 4 other boats nestled into the area, but we had no problem finding a good spot to set the anchor. 

This anchorage is adjacent to Tyndale Air Force base.  At 5 pm sharp, I heard the Star Spangled Banner being played over the base’s PA system.  I had forgotten this practice on every military base.  My first exposure to that experience was at Ft. Gordon (outside Augusta) as young kid fresh out of college.  My first jobsite assignment was there and I quickly learned to drop WHATEVER I was doing at 5 pm and promptly stand and place hand over heart for the daily performance of the National Anthem.  Though I never served in the military, I was always impressed by this critical tradition, watching soldiers stop (driving their personal cars) in the middle of the road, get out, and salute Old Glory.  It is not optional.  It is what you do.  And now, 45 years later, I am so glad I was taught to respect the flag and for all it stands.   Train up a child as he should go, and when he is old, he will not depart from it.

Darkness arrives these days shortly after 5, being on the central time zone line, so an anchorage, compared to a marina, usually means early dinner, reading, maybe Wheel of Fortune, a tiny bowl of ice cream, and 2 games of Solitaire. 

With virtually no tide and no wind (this night), the boat feels like it is sitting on the boat yard instead of water.  An occasional creak of the anchor chain during the minuscule tide wing is the only noise.  Anchoring out can be one of life’s greatest pleasures.  Twas a lovely day indeed.