Day 270–May 23

Melbourne to Titusville City Marina

From our anchorage north of Melbourne, near Patrick AFB to Titusville City Marina

Our ride was only 27.3 NM and remarkably quiet (limited boat traffic).  Rising early on a Saturday did help, as most boaters are pretty slow out of the tracks on the weekend.  We made it to the Titusville City Marina at exactly noon, the earliest check-in time.  We had been told they were going to squeeze us on the face dock because they were so full.  Being on face docks are the norm for All Talk II (Steve & Susie).  Their boat is so long, that most marinas don’t have slips deep enough to accommodate them. But I was not particularly pleased that we would have to be on one, as well.  Face docks usually mean more boat traffic coming and going (many boaters don’t understand the term “no wake”). And on the face dock, the boat is at the furthest point from the marina store, restrooms, and anything else that is going on. Titusville was no different, except the face dock they were put on also served as the break wall for the marina entrance.  All the winds from the east and the wakes from the ICW hit that break wall.  Now, with their 70’ boat tied to the break wall, they would take the initial “hit” from the wave activity, and then bounce off the wall during rough conditions.

But luck was with us. The marina had a slip that would accommodate our boat.  It was near the gate, restrooms, and marina store.  We were grateful to have a slip well away from the marina entrance. The location provided good shelter from the winds, as well, so most of our stay was still and steady.

Titusville Marina was adequate.  Not fancy, just adequate. It provided all our needs.  And after being on the hook for 6 straight nights, we were glad to be tied to cleats on a dock for a few days.  But, Marlin Bay in Marathon had raised the bar for marinas, so we were a little disappointed in Titusville.  I had to have a little talk with myself. We had been spoiled in the Keys and there are very few marinas that meet the Marlin Bay standard.  Many boats are home for these marina folks, and it is apparent they struggle to be able to afford to take good care of them.  This experience was good for me, reminding me how fortunate I am, and I needed to measure my attitude toward others who have not been equally blessed.  

Our main reason for stopping in Titusville, however, was the rocket launch.  This is the host town for NASA.  The first manned spacecraft was scheduled for Wednesday, May 27, 2020, and we wanted to be as close as possible to experience the whole event.  It has been 9 years since a manned spaceship has been launched.

I know I have mentioned the term “crossing your wake” since we began this journey. Simply, it means that at the end of your journey, you arrive at your starting point of The Great Loop. Though we bought the boat in Stuart, Florida, we declared Savannah as our our official Great Loop starting position. That said, we passed through Stuart a couple days ago. At some point, we had mentioned to Steve and Susie remembered we had bought the boat there, so technically, we had crossed our first wake. When the boat crosses its wake, tradition dictates a big celebration. Since the crossing is normally your home port, you hope friends and family will be there to hoop and holler, and join in your celebration of a successful 6,000 mile journey. We passed through Stuart without a thought of the crossing, but Steve and Susie had not forgotten. Twenty minutes after we were secured to the dock, a knock was at the boat door. They were standing there with bags in their hands. We welcomed them aboard, of course. And then they opened up the bag.

Our friends surprised us with a bottle of champagne to celebrate our unofficial crossing of the wake.a

I was so surprised they had remembered the Stuart conversation. But here they were, bringing the party, ready to celebrate with us. Amanda started opening the bottle (I’ve never opened a bottle in my life) when Steve suggested we might want to open it outside. We walked out on the back porch of the boat. I started untwisting the wires and noticed the cork moving. I aimed the bottle away from the boat, toward the street and POP! the cork landed on the sidewalk about 40′ from the boat. I would have had a hole in the ceiling if we had stayed inside. We laughed and celebrated, naming this event the pre-party, warm up for the official celebration when we arrive in Savannah. We drank a little bubbly, had lunch, and laughed at ourselves.

That afternoon, we took a walk in the area, ready to stretch our legs after 6 straight days of not touching land.

The exercise felt great and we looked forward to a few days of vegging out.

Day 269–May 22

Ft. Pierce to N. Melbourne

Faber Cove (Ft. Pierce) to Pineda Causeway Anchorage (Melbourne)

On the fly, we decided to stretch the day a little longer than the original plan of 44 NM.  We pushed it 51.1 to an alternate anchorage, which would allow us to get a little closer to the Titusville Marina destination Saturday.  I like to limit the weekend time on the water, when possible; there are so many people out on the weekends.

The most exciting thing about today was passing the NASA Center. Titusville is home of the space launches and we look forward to seeing the first manned space launch in 9 years. Currently, it is scheduled for Wednesday afternoon.

With winds forecasted 10-15 out of the Southeast, we anchored on the North side of the bridge, providing nice protection for the brisk ocean breezes just a short distance away. We were near Patrick Air Force Base, but the activity from planes was virtually nonexistent so we enjoyed a relaxing evening and quiet night on the water. The vehicle traffic calmed down by 6 pm, making the anchorage another quiet respite for the evening.

Too many days of “non-events” can get boring, but it was nice to have a day without a weather threat, worry of shallow water, or anything to envy. Amanda prepared a gourmet dinner of grilled lamb-chops, asparagus, and mushrooms. Yum! I slaved hard over the 3 dishes I had to wash and we crashed early.

Day 268–May 21

Lake Worth North in Palm Beach to Faber Cove–Ft. Pierce

45.7 NM 6 hours 53 minutes

We rewarded ourselves an extra 30 minutes this morning before leaving.  The bridge opening was a little later, so we took advantage and had took smaller sips of our coffee.   The day’s forecast was perfect, with no threat of rains or storms.  More beautiful homes kept us looking.  Luxury yachts 100+ feet long are commonplace here.  The young men that work on these boats have job security.  It takes elbow grease and gallons of sweat to keep these beauties in top condition, so the cleaning and maintenance crews are full time on many boats.

After we were underway, we reached out to Chris/Alyse Caldwell, who are from Vero Beach.  They are professional boat trainers.  We hired Chris in early 2019 to train us on our boat.  He traveled with us from Daytona Beach to Brunswick.  I learned the basics of maintenance and boat handling from Chris.  He is an excellent teacher and communicator.  His knowledge of boats is broader than most; his people skills excel, and he’s a pleasure to have around.  He built my confidence, encouraged me, and made sure I was prepared to handle a boat like this before leaving us in Brunswick. 

We rendezvoused with them in Ft. Pierce.  They suggested the Faber Cove anchorage, one much better than the one we had planned.  Then they worked out an arrangement in a private marina with one of their contacts, allowing us to park our dinghy for a couple hours.  They picked us up in their van and took us to a restaurant where we had an early dinner and a great visit.  It was good to catch up with them. I regret that I failed to get a picture of them.

Faber Cove was similar to the Sunset Basin, in that it was almost completely surrounded by land.  Nice condos on all sides, we enjoyed the anchorage with only one other boat.  We were well protected from the wind and had plenty of swing room.

We returned to the boat after dinner, I did a little blogging, Amanda did a little knitting, and we called it a day.

Day 267–May 20

Sunrise Bay to North Lake Worth; Ft. Lauderdale to Palm Beach

42.5 NM 8 hours, 15 minutes

Today’s journey was from Sunset Basin near Ft. Lauderdale to Lake Worth-North.  We left 30 minutes ahead of Steve and Susie for a fuel stop.  One of the pleasant surprises of this trip has been the fuel economy of our slow boat.  The bonus (bad economy usually means cheaper fuel) has been the drastic reduction in the fuel prices.  After paying over $5.00/gallon (only once) in Canada last summer for diesel, I happily paid $1.94 today.  They threw in all the ice I needed and topped off our water tank.  As we pulled out of the fuel dock, Steve and Susie drove by, timing our rendezvous perfectly.

We continued our gawking at the real estate, wondering how can so many people make so much money and all congregate in one area. Often, we would say, “Surely, that’s a hotel.”  But each time the structure was a single family dwelling.  For entertainment, we’d pull up a real estate web site and check out a house.  For example, one we liked was $6.65 million.  But the pool was just too small, so we decided not to make an offer.  Our favorite sign said, “Now reduced to $4,995,000.00.”  We passed through Boca Raton, which drips with wealth. The places are immaculate.  We passed the Boca Raton Resort where Amanda and I attended a fire sprinkler convention on my 50th birthday.  We stayed in the tower overlooking the lake, enjoyed great times with friends from the industry, and made lots of memories.  It was fun seeing it from the water side.

Lake Worth North was a pretty anchorage.  We did get our late afternoon thunderstorm, but we can’t hold that against the anchorage. The storms are becoming quite the norm.

The anchorage, we learned later, is the neighborhood of Jack Nicolas’ home.  Wished we had known before we left.  I’d have called The Bear and asked him over for supper.  Rumor has it Tiger Woods’ home is here, too. Too bad we missed it.

Steve and Susie came over for dinner.  I threw the dinghy in the water, picked them up, and we enjoyed orzo salad, grilled chicken, asparagus, and for dessert, Blue Belle ice cream with Amanda’s famous homemade chocolate sauce.  After the sugar buzz wore off, I slept really well.

Day 266–May 19

Miami Virginia Key Anchorage to Sunrise Bay/Ft. Lauderdale

We pulled out of south Miami around 7.  Our planned, shorter day, 27 NM (but still 5 hours), meant we could enjoy (rubberneck) the landscape of this first day inside the ICW.  With the number bridges we had to navigate, the pace of the day was even slower (as hard as that may be to believe).  This waterway contains some of the most expensive real estate in the world.  Our mouths hung open as we perused countless multi-million dollar homes.  And most of them have boats, correction, mega yachts sitting at the private docks.  They all are what I call “2 comma” boats and private residences.  All the properties have 2 commas in their value.  Amanda said, “I have never heard the brand names of most of these boats.”  And my reply, “you never will, dear, you never will.”

As I mentioned, many bridges cross the ICW in the metro areas.  Most are low enough to require opening for our passage.  We frequently wait for the next scheduled opening.  Bridges open either on the hour and half hour or on the quarter and three quarter hour.  So, once you get into the rhythm, seldom is our wait more than 5 minutes but our pace is always slow.  It’s all part of the adventure, so we remember we aren’t on a schedule and try to soak it all in.

I love draw bridges, except when I have to wait for them.

We arrived at the anchorage just after noon, so we had a long afternoon to chill.  Steve and Susie had stopped at a boat yard to have some minor work done on the control board of their stabilizers.  They soon caught up with us and anchored off our port side a safe distance away.  Shortly after, I was on the cockpit (back porch) writing this blog when I heard this strange knocking sound.  Amanda had stretched out on the couch in the salon, so I got up, assuming she was tapping on something in the galley.  She asked me what I was hammering outside.  As I answered that I wasn’t hammering, I heard it again.  I walked back outside and heard it again.  I had nothing running, but couldn’t figure out where it was coming from.  One last time, the knocking sounded like it was in the hull of my boat, so I leaned over the gunnel and there was Susie hanging on the side of my boat laughing at us. Steve had swum to the other side and started knocking again.  These 2 goofy friends had slipped into the water from their boat, quietly swam to ours, and started the knocking on the boat side.  They have made our trip more fun and their sense of humor keeps us guessing as to what might happen next.

Steve here, setting his anchor in Sunrise Bay.

Sunrise Bay is just off the ICW. A popular anchorage because it is surrounded by homes almost entirely; wind is seldom a threat from any direction.  With a nice breeze through the evening and night, we swung gently with the other boats and enjoyed stress free sleep.

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Day 265 May 18

Rodriguez Key to Miami (Virginia Key Anchorage)

Day 265  May 18, 2020

We ran “outside” in the bluewater all day. 40.6 NM,

A restful night at Rodriguez Key and we were off to Miami shortly after 7.  The forecast wasn’t quite what we hoped for, but by no means a show stopper.  Tropical Storm Arthur, first named storm of the year, did not affect us, since most of it was working its way up the Carolina’s coast today.  That said, the partly cloudy day turned to mostly cloudy, and we did get one of those widely scattered thunderstorms shortly after our departure.  But the seas were flat and most of the day was breezy enough to keep us from getting too sweaty. We left the open water and entered Key Biscayne, south of downtown Miami.  Our plan was to anchor at a place called Miami Stadium Anchorage, but it was packed out with boats.  All Talk II and the Honey Queen backtracked about a ½ mile to the south side of the Bay Bridge, where we still had a view of the Miami skyline.  This anchorage is much more exposed to southerly winds, but the storm we were watching was north of Miami, so we felt safe. However, feelings should always be verified with facts when it comes to boating. 

Steve and Susie asked us to join them for burgers on the grille (still my favorite meal choice).  So I splashed the dink and we puttered 100 yards to their 70’ Marlow mother ship, All Talk II. We ate on the flybridge and watched the clouds grow more and more ominous. We finished eating and decided the weather wasn’t going to be as kind to us as we had forecasted.  Steve and I both have come to the conclusion that meteorology is not in our future.  We made a joint decision it was in our best interest to get our _ _ _ back to the boat, or Steve and Susie would have guests for the night. The rain started as we secured the dinghy on our swim platform.  We secured the rest of the windows just as the bottom fell out.  Then the lightning came.  Then the hail. The winds picked up and our boat (and the 70 footer, too), did almost a 360 turn in the bay.  I dragged anchor at least 300 feet. Winds peaked at 43 knots on my wind meter (we spoke to friends the next day who were anchored around the corner, who said they saw 63 on their wind meter).  I was thinking that if it was raining cats and dogs right now, they would have hit the side of our boat, not landed on top. We were rocking and I was hoping that the mast on top of the boat (aka lightning rod) would not attract any high voltage from the air waves.  I mopped water the whole time that was blowing through the windows and doors and about 20 minutes later, the storm left us and we finally exhaled.

The worst behind us, we watched a few minutes of The Voice (my Admiral’s favorite show) before we went to bed.  We had experienced more than a widely scattered thunderstorm…it was severe. I’ll be happy to miss those in the future.

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