April 2020 – Honey Queen Adventures

Day 197 March 12

We pulled out of Little Shark River mouth and was headed south in a matter of minutes. Winds were pretty stiff out of the East, but the waves were kind to us, and we had an uneventful trip to Marathon. The water was relatively shallow for most of the trip and we probably saw 500 crab pots. Though our bearing was due South, auto-pilot was not much assistance because we were manually dodging pots nearly all day.

The further south we went, the more clusters of grass we saw.

This guy passed us doing probably 80 mph as we were arriving. The water is 7-8′ deep here all the time.

Arriving about 2:30, after 42 NM, we were welcomed to Marlin Bay Marina by a first class staff. The dock hands and office, as well, exceeded our expectations. The recommendations from friends was spot-on. The docks look brand new.

Our approach to the 7-mile bridge . Beyond…the Atlantic. This side is known as Florida Bay.

Apparently, the place was built by a developer about 6 years ago as condos, with each slip to be privately owned, but the concept didn’t work and the place went belly up shortly thereafter. After sitting vacant for nearly 6 years, the current property management/ownership company changed the concept to weekly rentals in the condos, and started renting slips to the public by the day, week, or month. The whole boating community doesn’t know about it yet, so we were fortunate to get the last available slip when we made the reservations a few days ago. The clubhouse, boater’s lounge, swimming pool, and fitness center are spotless and well equipped. Marinas, as a rule, get more expensive the further south you go, especially in what is consideration their high season. Marlin Bay was no exception, but comparably, it couldn’t be a nicer place.

What the next few days and weeks will bring, Corona virus considered, no one knows, but we do look forward to enjoying the weather and this beautiful location.

Day 196 March 11

Smokehouse Bay to Little Shark River (Everglades)

We pulled out at 7:30 and weaved our way out of the Smokehouse and Collier Bays. The tide was dead low, compared to the high tide coming in yesterday. On our way out, a local homeowner (and boater) hailed us on Channel 16, as we passed his home. Local knowledge is the best resource for navigating and he warned us that most charts in the area weren’t accurate. He advised me to favor the greens going out of the bays and favor the reds when I got to the river, heading out Capri Pass. I got a little confused when I got in the river and favored the greens. The charts showed 8’ of water at low tide (my reason for confusion), but I can verify the water is just over 4’ deep, and the local knew exactly what he was talking about; the Honey Queen drafts almost 5’. A sailboat, who was well behind me called and asked if I was aground. I told him, “No, I’m just cleaning the boat bottom.” I had already managed to get free of the shoal. He was kind enough to advise me I should be favoring the REDS. We were able to move over in the channel, find the deeper water, and follow the sailboat without further incident. We forked into the Capri Pass and then the Gulf of Mexico once again, before turning due South.

Most cruisers go a little further offshore than we chose for the beginning leg. Fewer crab pots to the west. We held a little closer for as long as we could because the winds were from the East. Protection from the land provided less windage and wave height.

The water and the sky competed for who made the prettiest blue.

About 30 miles into the trip we were out of sight of land; the geography of Florida’s west coast recesses to the east. I enjoy the freedom and independence of being out, away from everything and everybody, but I also wonder what would I do if something happened HERE. I run the check list of equipment in my mind, hoping I changed the filter, checked that level, cleaned the do-hicky, verified the widget, and adjusted the thing-a-ma-jig. Staying on top of all maintenance, and then trusting your equipment is the only option.

We knew we had picked a pretty good weather window, but I didn’t know it would be this calm. This wind came from the east-southeast, while we were cruising about 7 knots.

A smoother than forecasted day, we arrived at Little Shark River about 4:00. We had spoken with 2 boats, Sauvy B and All Talk II along the way, and figured out their destination was the same as ours. Their boats are both much bigger than ours, so I promised I would get as far into the river as possible to ensre they had space.

Shortly before arriving, we realized we had no cell coverage. As many people as we talk to, bad cell coverage always comes up in conversation, but it had not in this case. We usually advise family when we know we will be off the grid so to speak. Abigail ended up being the only one to panic when she couldn’t reach us. After about 24 hours, her worst fears were over. She would not be receiving her inheritance yet.

Millions of acres of the Everglades in the background

Little Shark River was beautiful. The edge of the Everglades is swampy looking and shorelines provide no place to get off the boat and walk. Even if they did, the landscape screams as alligator ground, so we were never tempted to go exploring.

With plenty of room, All Talk, Sauvy B, 4 sailboats, and one other trawler joined us at the mouth of the river. Without internet, TV, or cell service, we had dinner, read a little, and shut down for the day by 8:30.

Day 195–March 10

Ft. Myers to Smokehouse Bay (Marco Island)

We left Ft. Myers Yacht Basin early this morning, restarting our Southward journey. Leaving behind many friends, we hope to see them again in Savannah when they come our way. Many boaters turn eastward from Ft. Myers, crossing the Okeechobee Canal and Lake instead of rounding the tip of Florida. Our hope is to go to the Keys, so we continued south down the west coast of Florida, instead. We will travel to Marathon, Florida, and then spend approximately a month there, Lord willing, exploring the rest of the keys, all the way to Key West. Doing the math, we found it would be much more economical to stay at one marina, paying the monthly rate, than staying 1 or 2 nights at various marinas at the transient rate. The Keys have a bus system that runs the whole Keys, so we can travel for $2.00 each, from one end to the other. The marina, Marlin Bay, is also a resort, so we will enjoy the privileges of a nice pool and fitness center, as well, while we stay. The marina will also serve as our prep location for crossing over to the Bahamas, which is our desired destination in April.

We arrived at Smokehouse Bay around 3:30 or so. It was such a beautiful setting with very nice homes and condos on all sides. The mildest of breezes provided the air conditioning we needed for the whole night. I changed a fuel filter after the engine shut off on us in the Gulf today. When this happened to us in June (Chesapeake Bay), it was a MUCH bigger deal than today. Today, I knew what was wrong. In the Chesapeake, I was clueless. Today, winds were 5-10 knots and 1-2’ seas. Then, winds were 30-40 and seas were 8 feet. With the filter system I have on board, I can manually switch filters underway, which allowed us to be up and running within 2 minutes. If I had only known that last summer…. I wouldn’t have the adventure and experience I do now.

These osprey, like many, take advantage of channel markers as homes for raising their families.

The night was as peaceful as any we have ever enjoyed. With just a handful of other boats on the hook, we enjoyed plenty of space, even when the wind and tide changed during the night. It was so nice that we wanted to stay another day and explore Marco Island, but the good weather window for traveling dictates that we move on.