Days 95-100 September 6-11

Frankfort—Manistee—Ludington—Grand Haven—St. Joseph/Benton Harbor–Michigan City

I’ve combined the days in these cities/marinas because the pattern for travel has been pretty similar, day to day, without major life-changing events or scenery. Our travel has taken us down the Eastern side of Lake Michigan, south-southwest, following the coastline. Depending on the winds, we stayed as close to the shoreline as safety would allow, usually 3-4 miles offshore. We have learned that traveling Lake Michigan is much like what we learned on the Chesapeake Bay. The lake dictates your travel. Our job is to understand when the lake says we can travel. Simply put, Lake Michigan will kick your behind. Winds have been mostly from the South-Southwest. Since the lake runs pretty much North-South, it gets pretty wicked when Southbound.

One particular day, we started with winds in our face. Over a 4 hour period, we saw the winds change 180 degrees. Before we arrived at the marina, we were getting pushed, rolling the boat left/right because of the big swells on our stern. Our boats looked like drunk sailors (of which we are neither) trying to hold a straight line to our destination. The image on our wind app was amazing, especially during the period where it looked like we were in the eye of a hurricane. Granted, the winds were nothing like hurricane, and we were certainly never in danger, but the phenomena of the wind pattern over that short period of time reminded me that being close to shore, regardless of the forecast, is a wise decision. I was reminded the “Looper experts” suggest that being off the Great Lakes by Labor Day is a wise, conservative sailing plan. We have found that good travel days are fewer and farther between as the season evolves. We have found that weather days have actually forced us to enjoy the experience. We find time to play tourist and enjoy the charm of the towns we frequently skip through. We have time to get chores done on the boat, maintenance items completed, and actually sit down on the boat, visit with the marina locals, and chill. Meeting the people is what the experience is really about. We have developed a monologue , based on the questions we are always asked:

  1. Where are you from?
  2. Where are you going?
  3. When did you leave?
  4. Where was your favorite spot?
  5. How long will that take?

Admittedly, it is a pretty cool experience. And for the most part, we have relished this experience. This silly blog thing I do will be cherished when we reflect back someday. We still have no regrets for diving right in to the experience at this stage of life. As is often said, we don’t know what tomorrow holds, but we do know Who holds tomorrow. We will enjoy this until we don’t enjoy this. That will be the day we sell the boat and go back home or to the farm or to wherever He leads.

These pictures and comments reflect a summary of the days since our last entry:

Ludington had a festival going on in town, so the place was buzzing with activity. The marina was nearly full, so lots of boaters were able to walk (and one skoot) around the town enjoying everything from Boy Scouts selling popcorn to camping trailers and boats for sale to live music. It was a fun, brisk, relaxing day.

Grand Haven and St. Joseph’s/Benton Harbor were our next 2 stops. Grand Haven, though nice, was a quick one, as we tried to take advantage of the good weather window, knowing that we would soon be hunkered down for a couple days while Lake Michigan flexed its muscles.

This ship was too long to turn around so it backed from Lake Michigan to the dock (approx mile)
Grand Haven

The inlet at Grand Haven made me miss my little farm buggy at Sweetwater.

We arrived at St. Joseph/Benton Harbor on Monday, the 9th of September. West Basin Marina is surrounded by landmass (thus a basin) which meant wicked winds on the Lake were impervious to our location. A super clean marina with nice bathhouses and free laundry, we stayed tucked in for 2 nights. We took in an afternoon movie (Overcomer–awesome, must see), did a little grocery shopping, replaced the antenna that I accidentally removed going under a low bridge, and ate out at the famous pizza place. Our Uber driver, Ted (one of 2 in the town), became our friend. He would pick us up, drop us off, and give us tours of the town, going and coming to our destinations. Retired locally, he enjoyed having the outlet of driving and meeting people and we enjoyed the local hospitality.

Wednesday morning, September 11, we puttered down to Michigan City. I learned that Michigan City is not in Michigan. That’s weird. It’s like saying New York City, New Jersey, or Alabama City, Georgia.

As unattractive as the town is, it was a special day because Bob and Cindy Boucek, old friends who used to live in Savannah and now living in Elkhart, IN., came to visit us on the boat. They joined us for dinner at a very average restaurant, as we celebrated my birthday, along with Dale and Sandy Collins, our buddy boaters. The Grease n, I mean, the Fish n Chips were very forgettable, but the reunion with old friends made a great memory.