Smokehouse Bay to Little Shark River (Everglades)
We pulled out at 7:30 and weaved our way out of the Smokehouse and Collier Bays. The tide was dead low, compared to the high tide coming in yesterday. On our way out, a local homeowner (and boater) hailed us on Channel 16, as we passed his home. Local knowledge is the best resource for navigating and he warned us that most charts in the area weren’t accurate. He advised me to favor the greens going out of the bays and favor the reds when I got to the river, heading out Capri Pass. I got a little confused when I got in the river and favored the greens. The charts showed 8’ of water at low tide (my reason for confusion), but I can verify the water is just over 4’ deep, and the local knew exactly what he was talking about; the Honey Queen drafts almost 5’. A sailboat, who was well behind me called and asked if I was aground. I told him, “No, I’m just cleaning the boat bottom.” I had already managed to get free of the shoal. He was kind enough to advise me I should be favoring the REDS. We were able to move over in the channel, find the deeper water, and follow the sailboat without further incident. We forked into the Capri Pass and then the Gulf of Mexico once again, before turning due South.
Most cruisers go a little further offshore than we chose for the beginning leg. Fewer crab pots to the west. We held a little closer for as long as we could because the winds were from the East. Protection from the land provided less windage and wave height.
About 30 miles into the trip we were out of sight of land; the geography of Florida’s west coast recesses to the east. I enjoy the freedom and independence of being out, away from everything and everybody, but I also wonder what would I do if something happened HERE. I run the check list of equipment in my mind, hoping I changed the filter, checked that level, cleaned the do-hicky, verified the widget, and adjusted the thing-a-ma-jig. Staying on top of all maintenance, and then trusting your equipment is the only option.
We knew we had picked a pretty good weather window, but I didn’t know it would be this calm. This wind came from the east-southeast, while we were cruising about 7 knots.
A smoother than forecasted day, we arrived at Little Shark River about 4:00. We had spoken with 2 boats, Sauvy B and All Talk II along the way, and figured out their destination was the same as ours. Their boats are both much bigger than ours, so I promised I would get as far into the river as possible to ensre they had space.
Shortly before arriving, we realized we had no cell coverage. As many people as we talk to, bad cell coverage always comes up in conversation, but it had not in this case. We usually advise family when we know we will be off the grid so to speak. Abigail ended up being the only one to panic when she couldn’t reach us. After about 24 hours, her worst fears were over. She would not be receiving her inheritance yet.
Millions of acres of the Everglades in the background Sunset, looking toward the Gulf. Our soon-to-be friends on their boats, to the right. The basin to our north was very shallow, so we stayed closer to the river’s edge.
Little Shark River was beautiful. The edge of the Everglades is swampy looking and shorelines provide no place to get off the boat and walk. Even if they did, the landscape screams as alligator ground, so we were never tempted to go exploring.
With plenty of room, All Talk, Sauvy B, 4 sailboats, and one other trawler joined us at the mouth of the river. Without internet, TV, or cell service, we had dinner, read a little, and shut down for the day by 8:30.