After getting Abigail on a Lyft early Monday morning, we decided to stay in Baltimore through the 4th of July, though not our original plan. We heard the fireworks show was not only one of the biggest, but it would be presented in the harbor in front of our marina. We enjoyed these “bonus” days wandering the city, touring the National Aquarium and Ft. McHenry, and making friends with the many other cruisers who were staying in the same marina.
The aquarium lived up to its “national” status and was an enjoyable reprieve from the heat that felt just like Savannah.
We never tire of dolphins
Our boat across the harbor
I used to work with this guy. You know, kind of prickly.
The trip to Fort McHenry was especially meaningful. Purposely, we chose July 4 to tour the fort, which made it even more special. And in case you have forgotten your American history, the Baltimore Harbor is the site where Francis Scott Key penned our National Anthem. We arrived about 10:00 am, just in time for the flag changing ceremony. We were allowed the privilege of assisting in the raising of the 30′ x 42′ flag over the fort. As Old Glory began to elevate, one the park rangers, a young man approximately 25 years old broke into the National Anthem, accapela, in an operatic style. Goose bumps as big as pumpkins covered me and I was virtually moved to tears as this giant flag went up the pole.
The harbor where Key wrote the lyrics
Bring it on, you bloody British.
THE powder keg among powder kegs.
July 4, 2019–Amanda, Wes, & Old Glory
What a privilege to live in this country. The price paid for us is hard to comprehend, but this day’s history lesson reminded me again that the sacrifice was great. Oh that we could only remember so that we invest well for the future generations.
Through our friends, Ron and Carole Collins, we connected with his brother Dale, and wife, Sandy. They are doing the Great Loop. They caught up with us in Baltimore. They joined us for hot dogs and fireworks. We look forward to meeting up with them again along the way.
With the winds picking up and the forecast to increase, we rose early Sunday morning in Rock Hall, to ensure a smooth crossing, with Baltimore as our destination. By 8:00 am, we worked our way off the face dock, with the winds pushing against us. With no incidents or close calls with other boats in the marina, we were underway, East/Northeast to Baltimore.
Panaramic of Baltimore, from our boat at the Inner Harbor Marina.
Baltimore is where we came last September to what is known as a Trawlerfest. Five days of seminars ranging from how to buy a boat, how to do The Loop, navigation, basic diesel engine troubleshooting, and boat docking lessons taught us so much. The in-water boat show gave us an opportunity to board many boats. This hands-on experience not only narrowed our search significantly, we were pretty convinced we knew the brand name of boat we would pursue. At the week’s end, we were dangerously informed about the trawler life.
Arriving in the harbor around 11:00 am, we docked at the Inner Harbor Marina. It is virtually brand new and located on the waterfront (I guess most marinas are on the water, now that I think about it) of downtown. The area is like a huge park with lots of activities for kids of all ages, paddle-boats that look like pirate ships, a huge aquarium, Ripley’s Believe It or Not, the Hard Rock Cafe, and on and on it goes. Stores and restaurants are in abundance. Places like this are the reason we have to anchor. Anchoring out costs nothing and keeps the credit cards in our pocket. But for now, we are enjoying the hustle and bustle of the city.
Abigail and Amanda led me around town today like a little puppy in training. I enjoyed Areopostle, J. Crew, and MANY other delightful stores. I’ve been trained these 41 years to follow at a safe distance, never complain, and keep a keen eye open for a bench or chair in every store. I give myself an A for today’s effort as mother and daughter used the word “cute” 742 times. I finally suggested switching to “darling” late in the day as an equal substitute for what was being tried on. My comment was acknowledged, but “cute” continued to dominate for everything from tops to stationery.
After a little RNR back at the boat, we dined at the Rusty Scupper, a restaurant located adjacent to the marina. Shrimp jambalaya for me and crab stuffed shrimp for the ladies ended a perfect day with my girls. We sat on the celebrity pad until about 11:00 pm, admiring the gorgeous skyline of Baltimore.
Baltimore at sundown.
Monday morning, Abigail has to rise at 4:00 am to catch a plane back to Nashville. As much as we are enjoying this trip, nothing takes the place of friends and family who can come and visit. We will miss her. We miss so many who have been such a big part of our lives, leading to this point. We hope to share this experience with any who can join us along the way.
We rose early (boat time early), dropped the lines, and headed West to Rock Hill. Rock Hill is on the West side of the bay, but a short ride across. The bay narrows as we go North. Only a 2 hour ride (17 miles @ warp speed). Seas were calm and the wind at our back, so the beautiful day gave Abigail her first on board cruising experience. Her dream was to lie on the bow of the boat and sun bath like the celebrities do. The bow is now known as the celebrity pad.
Rock Hall is another little familiar looking town. Fishing and the marina life seem to be the main boosts in economy. Larger than Tangier Island, the town has made an effort to keep the downtown alive with a handful of eating establishments, shops, an ice cream stand, etc. Met a lady who lived in Savannah for 21 years who has a daughter the same age as one of kids. She knew our neighborhood, so we had a good visit with her playing “do you know”.
Abigail took many pictures with her photographic eye which not only made things a little more interesting, but also put me in a couple of shots. We chilled the day away and then had dinner at the Waterman’s Restaurant.
We spent today touring Annapolis with Abigail. Took a tour of the downtown and enjoyed seeing a couple beautiful churches, learning the Revolutionary and Civil War history of the area. We always enjoy hanging out with our adult children. Still hard to grasp that our baby and only girl is an adult, but she is thriving and making us proud.
Ceiling of the Catholic Church
The legs don’t support the story, but this is not a blue heron looking for food.
Just look at those hydrangeas.
We slipped back over to Davis’ to grab another Crab Pretzel roll and watch the USA Women’s Soccer team defeat France in the Quarterfinals of the World Cup.
We chilled out on the cockpit of the boat and then had dinner at the Boatyard Restaurant that evening. Trying to eat all the crab in Chesapeake Bay, as this is the capitol of crabbing.
I begin this chapter of the trip highlighting the last few weeks. Our plans to be off the boat for 3 weeks turned to 5 weeks. We enjoyed the time off the boat by welcoming William Hughes Dorman into the world, cutting grass at Sweetwater for a few days, Amanda attending her college reunion, celebrating our 41st anniversary, and having a side trip to Williamsburg on the return trip to the boat.
In these days we have learned much, which follows:
B.O.A.T. is an acronym for Bill Out Another Thousand. The end of the first leg of our trip was Deltaville, VA. We were having some electrical issues that were confusing me (doesn’t take much), so we determined a good game plan would be to leave the boat at a boat yard, get the repairs done, and not have to pay for storage (in water or out) while we were home enjoying our newest grandson. We soon learned we had other issues much more critical than electrical. My boat vocabulary now includes: shaft sleeve, cutlass bearings, corroded drive shaft, delaminating fiberglass, alternator temperature sensor failure, intermittent voltage regulator. As I borrowed money from my grandchildren’s college fund, I had to remind myself that any one of these things could have been significantly worse if they had gone undiscovered. So I am working on my thankful attitude and trying to refocus on the reason we undertook this adventure. The last couple weeks have made me think that a pleasure boat could possibly be an oxymoron.
The delay for repairs on the boat yard also changed our trip plan. Though The Loop can be done at different paces, there are certain milestones in the journey that must be acknowledged and obeyed, purely for safety. One rule: be off the Great Lakes by Labor Day, ensures avoiding the big winds and seas, and dropping temperatures of the North. We were no longer comfortable we could make that deadline, unless we skipped every site and did nothing but drive the boat on the route. We started this adventure to enjoy the trip and each other; sitting on a boat, burning diesel everyday for 9 weeks didn’t sound fun to us. So, we modified the game plan and decided to enjoy the East Coast until the weather forecast says “cold is coming”. Then we’ll turn South. It is a little of a disappointment, but a necessary decision for safety and enjoyment. We look forward to our modified plan.
With that said, we headed out from Deltaville, VA. on the morning of June 22, after a successful sea trial the day before, ensuring all issues with the boat had been successfully addressed and resolved.
Our plan was to cross the Southern section of the Chesapeake, going West to East, to Tangier Island. Three to four hours, tops. The forecast was windy and choppy, but we were to arrive before noon, so the worst of the wind would come later in the day. With the winds rocking the boat and stirring the fuel in our tanks, the fuel line got stopped up and we our 1 engine shutdown.
Coast Guard towed us in.
In the marina
This Coast Guard crew was professional and on their game getting us to safe harbor.
I’ll skip the details of the next few hours, but we were successfully towed in to Tangier, where we spent Friday through Monday cleaning out one tank to ensure trash could not possibly cause a problem like this in the future. I’ve learned much about fuel polishing, as it is called, and now have added fuel polishing to the long list of preventive maintenance practices.
Tangier is a unique little island with lots of history going back to the Revolutionary War. Crabbing and tourism are the only industries holding the little place together. The population continues to dwindle as the kids finish school and move on to where they can make a living. Sadly, the bay is slowly eating away at the land. It is projected the island will be gone in 50 years, unless state or federal funding builds a seawall around the whole island. Not much hope for them.
The little marina: old, cheap, and clean.
We enjoyed meeting Mr. Milton Parks, owner of the little marina (a few slips and a couple of bathrooms). He is famous in the boating community in this area and has a sharp wit that brings lots of smiles. He’s at least the 3rd generation of Parks on the island. Eighty eight years young, and almost deaf, but on his game. A crabber and diesel mechanic all his life, the loud engines of his past make a conversation with this man not only interesting and repetitive, but also pretty challenging. He’s a good man and I am fortunate and better for having met him.
We met new friends at Tangier, enjoyed our last evening together sitting on the dock, and then we all went different directions on Tuesday morning. Our destination was Solomon’s Island. An uneventful ride across the bay, with the Honey Queen performing beautifully. Anchoring out, we really did no site seeing here. The winds were calm, sunset was beautiful, and we savored the quiet solitude of being “on the hook” with no boat or people anywhere nearby.
Solomon’s Island
Wednesday morning, 26 June, we traveled 42 miles North to Annapolis. One of the prettiest days we’ve seen. Winds were 3-5 knots, from the South, with flat seas. It was nice to set the auto-pilot and let the boat hold the course, while I enjoyed a stress free day at the wheel. Amanda even took a little nap below deck it was so smooth.
We stayed in Eastport Yacht Center Marina in Annapolis last night. This is our home until Saturday. Abigail comes in tonight so today is grocery day, boat cleaning, and prepping for company.
We wandered the edge of town, found a little grille called Davis’. We enjoyed a pretzel roll with crab and cheddar cheese melted on top. As Amanda’s dad used to say, “That will make you kiss your mother in law.” Tasty! Laid low the rest of the day. Abigail arrived after midnight, after storms delayed her flight out of Nashville. We had a quick visit and then lights out.
Our 9:30, Mother’s Day exit from Top Rack Marina took us through the heart of Norfolk/Portsmouth.
Our jaws dropped wide open as we passed through. Amanda’s comment was, “We’re not in Kansas anymore.” Our boat, which looks big to many people, was put in perspective as we passed the destroyers, aircraft carriers, frigates, container ships, cruise ships, and barges. What a feeling of humility and awe, appreciative of our armed forces, living in a country where protection of the people has always been the priority and purpose of our government. I’ll stop there as this is not a political debate platform.
140′ Vertical–RR Lift Bridge
We decided to duck into a marina known as Salt Pond Marina in Hampton Virginia. Nice, economical stay. The plan was 1 night and head to Deltaville, Va. on Monday morning. The morning forecast changed our plan. Winds 15-20 mph, with rain and fog, and lots of open water between here and our destination dictated that we chill another 24 hours. Minor boat maintenance and making our plans for our 2-week “visit” to Savannah became the day’s priorities. Tuesday morning, crack of dawn departure is now Plan A.
The last few days have offered less excitement than the previous, with fewer photo ops, so here’s a summary (as much for me to remember more than your reading pleasure).
We enjoyed time with our old friends, the Adlon’s, who hosted us by serving us lunch in their restaurant, loaning us their truck so we had freedom to play tourist and get a few supplies. We enjoyed dinner with them Friday night.
We toured the Albermarle Museum on Thursday afternoon, learning much of the history of the area, with my favorite being the maritime development influence on the area.
Rode one like this as a kid with step grandpa.
I never installed a fire pump like this in my career.
Friday was spent at the Outer Banks, visiting the site of the Wright Brothers first flight and enjoying the beach for awhile.
Our dockage was complimentary, provided by the city of Elizabeth City. They welcome transients such as us by providing docking on the waterfront. Of course, I always enjoy free. Backing into the tight slip on Thursday afternoon, with significant wind in my face, was not an easy task for this rookie captain. Somehow, the mariner gods smiled on me, and we managed to get backed in. On our exit Saturday morning, those same mariner gods were not so friendly. We had prepped, released the noncritical lines, and Amanda was on the portside side bow to release the last line. I started out, but the boat was behaving erratically. Amanda yelled that I was about to hit one of the pile guides. About the same time, the captain on the boat adjacent to us yelled, “Hey your starboard stern line is still attached to the piling!” Forty years of marriage and we still have communication issues. Amanda flew to the stern, released the line, and it was amazing how well the boat handled. I really wish I had a picture, but we were too busy trying to pull pilings out of the ground.
The Dismal Swamp was our Saturday adventure. We enjoyed this little leg, but won’t repeat it. The pictures show its unique beauty, but the trip was slow and dangerous because of hidden obstacles. We hit something 2 different times. Fortunately, we had no damage.
Leaving….
Arriving
When you’re not the lead dog, the scenery never changes.
At the lock…see Savannah?
Long straight, man-made canal…Dismal
The cool part was learning to go through locks. This was our first. Not too difficult now, but we were a little intimidated. The dock keepers are patient, communicate well, and very helpful to those who are less experienced.
Water rising-Lock #1
Water dropping-Lock #2
After a VEEERRRRYYY long dissertation on the history of the Dismal Swamp, compliments of the lock keeper, we managed to get to our marina, just before the storm hit. As you can see, not all our scenery is glamorous.
Across the river from marina.
Tornado hit Suffolk, 10 minutes from the marina.
The hour is late as I wrap this day. I’ll report our excitement through Norfolk tomorrow.
With the gorgeous sunrise we also got this shot of 2 sailboats. The fog on the water seemed to part so I could get the boats and the fog effect. I am not an artist and I am not a photographer, but if I was, this would be the painting I would want to paint. Who knows, maybe someday, when I get over my addiction to diesel fumes.
Our original plan today was short. We would go about 20 miles and anchor at the entrance to the Albermarle Sound. This sound, and the Pamlico that we traversed 2 days back, are known for getting a little “bumpy”. We got to our planned destination by 11:00ish, and listened to the weather report. The forecast for the area was “winds up to 5 knots and the seas were an anticipated 1 foot”. Being the seasoned captain that I am (almost 3 weeks of experience), I determined that there was no better time than the present to make the crossing. It was a good call. We made the 15 mile crossing with hardly a ripple on the water. The only challenge in the crossing was negotiating the crab trap floats. The very straight line on the charts was more like a pass route that Tom Brady has his receivers run for the Patriots. I am reasonably sure I missed them all and none are hanging from my prop shaft.
Our first bald eagle of the trip.
We give these guys ALL the room they want
After passing The Tow (as they prefer to be called)
An old plant is the backdrop for a residential development along the Pasquotank River
Aerial view of same–entering Elizabeth City, NC. The dot is the Honey Queen.
With the crossing, we pushed ourselves on to Elizabeth City, NC. (Mile Marker 51), which is where I am currently writing at the moment. We have plans tomorrow to reconnect with our old friends, Scott & Michelle Adlon. They were friends in Savannah from our Southside Baptist days. They are here and own a couple restaurants. Michelle and Amanda have talked for most of the day, so the next couple days have been programmed strategically by the cruise directors. It will be fun to catch up with friends from long past.
This was one of our longer days: 53 miles. That doesn’t sound like very far, but when
blazing through the aqua at speeds of 7.5 knots (that’s over 8.5 mph), it can
be a pretty long day. Traveling on a
boat at this speed capacity not only allows us to stop and smell the roses,
sometimes we can actually watch them grow.
We pulled out at 07500 (10 till 8). The big adventure was the excitement of passing through the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal. Stories of osprey, bald eagles, alligators, and even an occasional bear sighting had us pumped with anticipation. As it turned out, we saw 5 horseflies, 2 of which drew blood. This man-made canal was long and straight. Did I say straight? Were it not for the other occasional boats we met and passed us, I could have set the auto-pilot, taken a nap, had lunch, and read War and Peace without ever touching the wheel.
Stern view
Bow view
We did get to steer from the flybridge which was nice, as the weather has not been quite warm enough to enjoy it often. I love having lunch up there. For those who know me well, Doritos are my main staple. Having them on the bridge is always a game of cat and mouse. I have figured out this week that bringing the bag to bridge, in lieu of few on the plate, guarantees entry into my mouth.
Our anchorage this night was on the Upper Alligator River (Mile Marker 101.1). An old logging channel had been cut in the basin and was well marked on our charts. We eased into the area with plenty of water (depth) and settled in. Though the tide swing in this area is virtually non-existent, the current does change slightly. The boat swings on the hook (aka anchor). The beauty of this particular place was we got to watch a fabulous sunset from our back porch. And then got to watch an even more spectacular sunrise from…. our back porch. Living in a mobile home that floats has a few disadvantages, but having a different back yard, not only every day, but twice a day, is a pretty cool “thang”.
