Ground Hog Day, we woke up to the great news that we would have an early Spring, as the infamous Phil, the Punxsutawney groundhog, predicted. It must have been an omen because we got an improved forecast for the potential Monday evening crossing. Time will tell if Phil knows what he’s doing.
We “went to church” by linking up to our Compassion Christian app and streamed our Sunday morning service from Savannah. Right after lunchtime, Amanda reconnected with Kim (weather forecaster) once again for an updated forecast. Kim said, “GO!”. The weather was going to be pretty good for a Monday afternoon start. Within 15 minutes, we had disconnected the power and lines at the Scipio Creek Marina and were underway, destination Dog Island.
We tucked in on the NE side of the island, protecting us from the stiff SE winds.
Our 4-hour trip of 23 NM got us to the anchorage on the North side of the island. Winds were brisk, gusting to 25 knots. But the forecast called for them to calm down as the evening wore on. So, I bundled up and dropped 125 feet of anchor rode, to ensure we wouldn’t drag during the stiff winds. The boat rocked from 6 pm till about 9, but then settled into a quiet evening of calm waters. I watched the last 2 minutes of the Super Bowl. I watched a total of 2 minutes of NFL the entire season, as I still have issues with their tolerance of players kneeling during my National Anthem. I believe Kansas City won. Really glad I missed the halftime show. We crashed about 9:30 or so and had an incredibly quiet night, hearing only the Gulf crash on the shores just over the dunes of the skinny Dog Island. Tomorrow is the big “crossing” from here all the way to Clearwater.
We woke to one of the more gorgeous sunrises we have experienced. Red sky in the morning, sailor’s warning.
We traveled from Pearl Bayou (anchorage near Tyndale AFB and Panama City) through the East Bay, Mexico Beach, Port St. Joseph, Lake Wimico, into the Jackson River, the Apalachicola River, and finally into Scipio Creek in the heart of Apalachicola, or The Apalach, as the locals say .
The day was long, but easy, to Apalachicola. The devastation we saw was sobering. How sad to see all the hurricane damage along the coastline. Trees were destroyed everywhere. I’m sure it was a beautiful ride just a few short months ago. The locals say it will never be the same. The most developed area was Mexico Beach. It was essentially wiped off the map. Not much other industry around, so it is unlikely the financial base will support the cleanup and restoration of the natural landscape.
Lots of homes without roofs, still.
Just one of many we saw along the way.
The rainbow appeared after the rainstorm when the sun came out
Giant Legos form this retaining wall
An old abandoned railroad swing bridge
We arrived in Apalachicola a little after 3 pm today. Our trip was 7 3/4 hours and covered just under 50 miles.
Food was okay–Oysters were Great!
Scipio Creek Marina served its purpose, but it was a little pricey, not particularly clean, and not particularly helpful staff. 2 stars
Hurricane Michael did minimal damage here, so things have pretty much returned to normal.
On our first morning of town exploration, we met Gwen in a ladies’ clothing store where she works. Amanda and Gwen quickly became friends. I got out of the store with only minimal damage and shortly thereafter, Gwen and Reggie Corbett were on our boat having a glass of wine.
Great folks, Reggie and Gwen (though not Reggie’s best photo)
They have been in the area less than 2 years, moving here from Del Ray, Florida, to get away from the fast pace of development in south Florida. They bought a home here, built in the late 1800’s, which has been immaculately restored. Thirteen-foot-high ceilings make the home feel so spacious. They welcomed us in, loaned us their spare car for grocery shopping and errands (a vintage Jaguar) and made us feel like family.
Our friends thought this was a funny name, considering our boat name and Amanda’s grandma name.
Did I mention Apalachicola is the oyster capital of the world?
A walk through downtown often reveals scenes like this.
Apalachicola, besides a quaint stop, also serves as a great place to prep and begin the weather watch process for the crossing. A boat can leave directly from here and cut across the Gulf to Tarpon Springs or Clearwater. Most Loopers, however, choose to go a little further East to Carrabelle. Leaving from Carabelle saves about 20 miles vs. crossing from Apalach. So, we started studying the weather “apps” we have used along much of our trip. Windy has become our favorite. It provides current wind, wave, and swell action along many points of travel. It also does a great job of forecasting up to 5 days out. This free app has become our “go-to” daily as we plan our travel. The forecast for the rest of the week was pretty dismal, so we decided we would sleep late, eat out, and walk the streets of Apalach until the weather broke in our favor. We enjoyed dinner at the Owl with our new friends, Ed and Kathy, of Vitamin Sea, a 40-foot motor cruiser. They joined us on our second day at Scipio Creek Marina. Each day, we met and discussed the weather forecast. Also, a weather forecaster, Kim, in Carrabelle, was consulted for her professional opinion. She welcomes calls from Loopers and affirms or disputes your tentative plans. Her expertise is much broader that most of ours. She is such a help in planning the crossing.
Friday night, we went to the Dixie Theater in downtown Apalachicola. The entertainment was a Jim Croce tribute singer. He did a great job of playing Jim’s greatest hits (and some classics that weren’t big hits). Croce, one of my influences as an acoustic player, was well presented this night.
We enjoyed popcorn and snacks with Ed and Kathy at the Dixie Theatre.
The crossing, from Carrabelle, can range from 140-160 NM, depending on your route selection. Many even follow the Florida coastline (aka the “rim”), going to Steinhatchee and Cedar Key before the Tarpon Springs/Clearwater area. This route is not an option for us because the water depths won’t accommodate our near 5 foot draft.
By Saturday, the forecast for a Monday crossing started to show promise. We called it day with the plan to review again Sunday morning, right after church.
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Two Georges Marina was home for Honey Queen while we were in Pine Mountain, GA.
We turned our sites to Pearl Bayou and left Two Georges Marina behind about 7:15 am. Our journey today would be 8.5 hours and cover 68 NM.
Our first leg was about 20 miles across the Choctawhatchee Bay. The day was sunny and the water flat. The temps reached the mid 60’s, which is almost balmy compared to what we’ve endured the last few weeks.
The day was pretty uneventful. We enjoyed the porpoises visiting the bow occasionally and saw lots of bird activity in the bay, feeding on fish.
The Choctawhatchee Bay was loaded with porpoises, pelicans, and loons. Often, 3-4 porpoises would escort us. So much fun as they effortlessly glide inches off the bow.
The remainder of the day was “inside” on the ICW.
With 20 miles behind us and now at the east end of Choctawhatchee Bay, we entered the Gulf ICW, once again.
We toyed with the idea of staying at a marina instead of going all the way to the anchorage. It had been a long day and we were feeling like a marina would compensate for our laziness. But as we checked marina after marina, along the way, we were soon reminded of the damage that Hurricane Michael had inflicted in October of 2018. Almost every marina is still closed in this area. Many have no docks, or if so, they were so damaged they have been rendered useless.
There was no one on any of the other boats at Pearl Bayou.
We arrived at Pearl Bayou, an ideal anchorage because it is surrounded, almost completely, by land mass. Unless the wind is really brisk out of the East, the water is flat as a lake. There were 4 other boats nestled into the area, but we had no problem finding a good spot to set the anchor.
This anchorage is adjacent to Tyndale Air Force base. At 5 pm sharp, I heard the Star Spangled Banner being played over the base’s PA system. I had forgotten this practice on every military base. My first exposure to that experience was at Ft. Gordon (outside Augusta) as young kid fresh out of college. My first jobsite assignment was there and I quickly learned to drop WHATEVER I was doing at 5 pm and promptly stand and place hand over heart for the daily performance of the National Anthem. Though I never served in the military, I was always impressed by this critical tradition, watching soldiers stop (driving their personal cars) in the middle of the road, get out, and salute Old Glory. It is not optional. It is what you do. And now, 45 years later, I am so glad I was taught to respect the flag and for all it stands. Train up a child as he should go, and when he is old, he will not depart from it.
Darkness arrives these days shortly after 5, being on the central time zone line, so an anchorage, compared to a marina, usually means early dinner, reading, maybe Wheel of Fortune, a tiny bowl of ice cream, and 2 games of Solitaire.
This Honey Queen herself often prepares gourmet meals when restaurants are not an option. Tonight, Country Captain and fresh green beans.
With virtually no tide and no wind (this night), the boat feels like it is sitting on the boat yard instead of water. An occasional creak of the anchor chain during the minuscule tide wing is the only noise. Anchoring out can be one of life’s greatest pleasures. Twas a lovely day indeed.
We got up Saturday morning, ready to go. My eyes caught one of the monitors at the helm that disturbed me. While off the boat for 6 weeks, I had waited 5 weeks for a technician to address a starting battery problem. After several more days, and several hundred dollars, we thought we had resolved the problem. Everything looked normal until today. After calling another technician in another state who had worked on the boat in June, we came to the conclusion the monitor itself is faulty, giving false readings. Tried to find a replacement at West Marine, but found nothing in stock that would work. So I decided to resolve the issue the old fashioned way: Install a piece of electrical tape over the lights so they tell me nothing.
In the meantime, I ordered a few things from Amazon for a Monday delivery. We contacted our harbor hosts friends, John and Ellen, and made yet another date for dinner Sunday evening. In the meantime, John heard from another nearby friend/harbor host who was having a few boaters over Sunday evening. John picked us up (again) and took us to Jack and Patti’s boat, Nearly Perfect, at Blue Water Bay Resort, in Rocky Bayou. Three other Looper couples were there, so we were able to connect with them and plan a potential crossing together. It appears our new friends, Ed and Kathy, of Vitamin Sea, are running on the same schedule as we are. So, it is likely we will cross with them, when weather permits.
We left Jack and Patti’s and headed to Doc’s, in Boggy Bayou, for oysters on the half shell and seafood gumbo. Good, good, food and better fellowship with John and Ellen.
Our parts came in Monday morning, I got my phone repaired (I tried to put a new battery in myself and broke it) and we picked up a few last groceries. Monday evening, John and Ellen picked us up one last time and we went to a vintage movie theater, Suds ‘n Cinema. An old-school theater, it has been remodeled and staged with tables and chairs throughout. Movies are “month-old” that have left first- release theaters, so the admission ticket is only $5.00. But that is just the beginning. After finding your seat, you order from the menu thirty minutes before the movie starts. The menu is 2-part. The snack (appetizer) is brought out to you prior to the start. Popcorn and other light snacks, along with sodas and several craft beers comprise this portion. The lights are still up in the theater and people have plenty of opportunity to visit with their friends, prior to the beginning.
Future Loopers, John and Ellen, and current Loopers (us) enjoying our last night together at Suds ‘n Cinema
Commercial precede the trailers
Perfectly named.
Once the movie is underway, your main course (hamburger, hot dog, panini, etc.) is brought to your table. You enjoy the movie while you eat, without interruption. The concept is great, and we had so much fun. It was a Monday night, and the room was nearly full. It looks like the owner is on to something. All prices were reasonable and the food was top quality.
Our time in Shalimar could not have been more enjoyable, thanks to John and Ellen. Loopers are really treated like royalty when visiting Shalimar. Thank you so much, John and Ellen. We will see you soon and reciprocate when you come to Savannah on YOUR LOOP!!!!!
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We said goodbye to Sweetwater Farm this morning and headed to Shalimar (outside Ft. Walton Beach) to Two Georges Marina. The Honey Queen weathered these 6 weeks well without us to cuddle her.
Amanda’s brother is slowly gaining ground in his recovery. Like most major surgeries, and adding in the stage of life, recovery has not been as quick as any of us hoped. Tom has a good friend-base in his neighborhood in Pine Mountain and we trust they will be taking good care of him with visits and meals.
This time away reminded us again of how fragile life can be and it affirmed that our decision to spend this first year of retirement traveling on a boat was a good one. We don’t know what tomorrow will bring, so we are pursuing this dream.
One of my wonderful Christmas presents–Did I mention that MY TEAM won the National Championship?
This holiday season was not the way we would prescribe it. Our married children rotate Christmas and Thanksgiving with the in-laws, so this was the year we did not have them all together for Christmas Day. It’s a bummer not being together, but we are so grateful that we have at least one holiday each year where we are. As a bonus, with our niece’s wedding, just before Christmas, we did get to be in one place. My parents also got their first opportunity to meet Will, their 4th great grandchild. It was a good holiday. Grateful we are.
The girls did a little swingin’ during the holidays.
Abigail was able to join us for Christmas, which was our highlight.
Mom holding Will
After our arrival in Shalimar, we had the good fortune to meet the harbor hosts for this area, John and Ellen Goncalves. For 2 evenings, we visited and enjoyed restaurants with them. Their hospitality was much appreciated and we feel we have gained 2 new friends. We look forward to seeing them at our October barn dance and in Savannah when they begin the Loop in 2022.
I am not really calling these couple days “boat days” on the blog. We decided to stick close to the marina, and enjoy a little down time after our care-giving experience, as well as, to get provisions for the boat, and do a couple boat projects before we start this next leg. It is our intention to be on the boat until we finish the Loop, probably sometime in May. We will see what life brings to us, holding all things loosely. With good fortune, we will spend time in the Marathon/Keys area and in the Bahamas, enjoying the warmer temperatures while we wait on winter to run its course, and end up in our home port of Savannah.
Tomorrow we set our course for the Panama City area.
The early morning sky always inspires–Just over the treeline is the Gulf
Our last day began as many others. Beautiful sunrise. Warmer day. We traveled about 43 NM along the Gulf ICW. We were often in sight of the Gulf of Mexico, but most of the time, we enjoyed the calmer waters, shielded by the small barrier islands and sand dunes. We will soon see plenty of the Gulf itself when the right weather day allows us to cross from Carabelle to Clearwater, Florida.
We never get tired of the porpoise escorts
We arrived at Two Georges Marina around 2:30. Two Georges offers a reasonable monthly rate and is located where it is well protected from significant winds and weather. We will leave the Honey Queen here until Amanda’s brother no longer needs our assistance in Pine Mountain, GA., as he recovers from his recent surgery. How long this boat break will be is undetermined. We will trust that God’s timing is perfect and we will return to our adventure when conditions allow. We look forward to the holidays, time with family, and a few projects at Sweetwater Farm. Tomorrow, we rent a car, and head to Pine Mountain.
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